What does Chef Dee Liang’s Sichuan do to move past mala hotpot?

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Chef Dee Liang's Chef 1996 Reimagines Sichuan Cuisine Beyond Mala Hotpot

Chef Dee Liang's restaurant, Chef 1996, is redefining Sichuan cuisine by moving beyond the prevalent perception of mala hotpot, offering a more nuanced and delicate approach to its distinctive flavours. While mala hotpot, characterised by its intense numbing (ma) and spicy (la) sensations, is a popular representation of Sichuan food, Chef 1996 presents dishes that highlight subtle heat and complex spice profiles. The restaurant, which is the flagship of the Meizhou Dongpo empire, opened in 2023 and quickly gained recognition, entering Asia's 50 Best Restaurants at No. 52 in 2026, marking a significant achievement as the first Sichuan restaurant to do so.
Refined Approach to Signature Flavours

Chef 1996's rendition of fuqi feipian, a classic dish of beef offal, exemplifies this refined approach. Instead of an overwhelming wave of heat, the dish delivers a more subtle, tingly numbing sensation that dances on the tongue, complemented by a precise and almost delicate spice. This careful balance allows the inherent flavours of the ingredients to shine through, offering a more sophisticated taste experience that deviates from the commonly understood intensity of Sichuan cuisine.
Challenging Perceptions with Unexpected Dishes

The menu at Chef 1996 actively challenges preconceived notions of Sichuan cooking by incorporating lighter, more summery elements. A notable example is the steamed Shandong Wagyu beef, served with celtuce and Chinese celery and an erjingtiao pepper sauce. This dish was surprisingly light and refreshing, showcasing a side of Sichuan cuisine that is often overlooked in favour of its spicier, more robust offerings. This innovative preparation demonstrates a broader understanding of the cuisine's potential beyond its most famous export.
Layering Textures and Contrasting Spices

Further illustrating the restaurant's nuanced culinary philosophy, the braised topmouth culter dish offers a masterful interplay of textures and spices. The freshwater fish, served with rice jelly, pickled chillies, and pickled ginger, presents a delightful layering of soft, pillowy textures against sharp, tangy spice. This combination creates a dynamic eating experience, demonstrating Chef Dee Liang's skill in harmonising contrasting elements to create a complex and satisfying dish that moves beyond the singular focus on mala.

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What does Chef Dee Liang’s Sichuan do to move past mala hotpot?

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