Why did Milan Fashion Week opt for a voluntary fur request over a ban?

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Milan Fashion Week Embraces Voluntary Fur Request Over Outright Ban

Milan Fashion Week has chosen to implement a voluntary request for participating brands to refrain from showcasing fur, rather than enforcing a mandatory ban. This decision by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI) stems from a belief that a persuasive approach is more effective than an imposed prohibition. The new guidelines, effective from September, will see the CNMI itself avoid using fur in its communications, signalling a shift in its stance.
Rationale for a Voluntary Approach

The CNMI has articulated that its strategic choice for a voluntary request over a ban is rooted in the conviction that influencing industry practices through recommendation is more impactful. This perspective suggests that encouraging brands to self-regulate and align with evolving ethical standards fosters a more sustainable and integrated change within the fashion ecosystem. The organisation's approach prioritises a collaborative effort, aiming to guide the industry towards more responsible material choices without resorting to punitive measures.
Scope of the New Guidelines

The guidelines issued by the CNMI specifically exclude certain materials from their voluntary request. These include shearling, which is a type of sheepskin with the wool still attached, vintage fur that predates the new policy, and fur obtained by indigenous communities through traditional subsistence hunting practices. These exclusions acknowledge the diverse origins and historical contexts of fur use, differentiating them from commercially produced fur.
Industry Precedent and Ongoing Activism

A significant number of major fashion brands that participate in Milan Fashion Week, such as the Armani Group, Dolce & Gabbana, and Prada, have already transitioned to fur-free policies. However, Fendi, a house with historical roots as a furrier, has remained a notable exception, with its new designer recently featuring "remodelled" furs in its collections. While activists view the CNMI's move as progress, they express concern over the lack of a guaranteed fur-free policy, hoping it will spur greater adoption of next-generation biomaterials. The European Commission is also yet to rule on a citizens' initiative calling for a ban on fur farming across the EU.

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Why did Milan Fashion Week opt for a voluntary fur request over a ban?

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